Wednesday, 22 July 2020

THE GARDEN OF EDEN

Winter in the sixties had a festive feeling. There was a strong chill in the air throughout the months of December and January. Every Sunday, truckload of picnickers headed for cosy and tranquil destinations far from the city’s jostling crowd. Central Calcutta (Kolkata was not a part of English lexicon) looked glamorous with exotic decorations for Christmas and New Year. Circus troupes from all over the country and beyond came in droves to entertain the city’s kids. The maidan would be crowded with dozens of fairs and exhibitions.

And, there was cricket; test cricket of course. ODI’s and T-20’s were not even invented. Eden Gardens, considered the second best cricket ground in the world, next only to Lord’s, was a mandatory venue.  The players of the touring teams used to be thrilled and fascinated by its lush greenery, bouncy pitch, fast outfield, early morning dew and the sporting crowd. Cricket was essentially a winter sport, played in a cheerful, relaxed atmosphere. Today’s fans would probably be horrified to learn that a test match lasted six days with a day of rest in between.

Often a match was scheduled at the Eden Gardens during the Christmas New Year week.  It was this venue where, in the year 1961 on 30th December to be precise, a starry eyed sixteen year old, ventured out to experience the flavour of the regal game at its highest level; a test match.

I was a student living in a hostel on a strictly controlled budget. Gathering the courage to plunge into an unknown territory was the first challenge.  An early morning queue to earn an entry to the coveted enclosure was the second. A daily ticket for a seat at the Ranji Stadium was Rs. 2 apiece. The total budget for the day was a princely sum of Rs. 5.

It has been more than fifty years since but I still remember the exhilaration I felt when I stepped inside the Eden Gardens for the first time in my life. The ground with a capacity of ninety thousand was almost full. Very soon, it would be packed to the brim. The fourth test match between India and England, led by Nari Contractor and Ted Dexter respectively, was scheduled to start shortly. As far as India’s prospect was concerned, there was nothing much to look forward to. India had a dismal record those days having received consecutive drubbings against West Indies (3-0) in 58-59 in India; England (5-0) in England subsequently. A freak victory against Australia in Kanpur thereafter triggered nationwide celebrations.
However, for the cricket loving city crowd, a victory did not amount to much; they just wanted to watch a good game.

India was led by Nari Contractor. There was no “local boy” in the Indian team. Pankaj Roy, the darling of the city had retired a few years earlier. However, that was not an issue to dampen the spirit of the fans at the Eden Gardens. Ironically, the only player with a Calcutta connection was Ted Dexter, the captain of the England team. His wife Susan was the daughter of Tom Longfield, captain of the first Bengal team that won the Ranji Trophy in 1939.
There was thunderous roar as the two captains walked in for the toss. Contractor flipped the coin and Dexter called. Both the captains bent down to have look. Contractor raised his right hand. Another roar bigger than the previous ensued; India had won the toss.

There was no giant TV screen anywhere to have a close look at the captains. In fact, there was no TV those days. The cricket lovers, away from the scene of action, stayed glued to their radio sets devouring every word of the running commentary broadcasted by All India Radio. It was known as ball-to-ball running commentary. Some of commentators were so skilful in the act that one could actually feel the thrill of the game in spite of being thousands of miles away. Two legendary commentators, Pearson Surita and Berry Sarbhadikari hailed from the city of Calcutta. Being cricketers themselves, their narration was just brilliant. Bengali commentary of the game of cricket rendered by Ajay Basu, Pushpen Sarkar and Kamal Bhattacarya were part of the city’s cricket folklore. They carried the spirit of cricket to the remotest hamlets of the state. It is generally believed that the idea of running commentary in any game started from the Calcutta station of All India Radio soon after its inception. The first ever commentary, in English, was during a soccer match between two city teams of yore.
I was accompanied by my cousin, a few years senior to me. I asked him in whisper, lest others discover my naivety, to identify the high court and the maidan ends, the terms I often had heard on the radio from the commentators whenever a bowler walked up to one of the ends to begin his run-up. The pavilion was across the pitch, hence there was no “pavilion end”.
England innings collapsed against the onslaught of Chandu Border, Salim Durrani, Ramakant Desai and Vasnt Ranjane. The only batsmen who stood their grounds on both the innings were the England skipper Ted Dexter and the opener Peter Richardson. They were both greeted with standing ovations by the sporting fans of Calcutta.

There were no man-of-the-match awards those days. But the man, who won the heart of the crowd, was a young Nawab from the state of Pataudi. He had returned home from Oxford and donned the Indian cap in Delhi a few weeks earlier. He enthralled the crowd with his well measured lofted shots that fell just beyond the reach of the fielders.  The Nawab, just a week short of his 21st birthday scored 64 in the first innings and 32 in the second. Destiny would pass on the mantle of captaincy to this young man during the next series in West Indies following a deadly delivery from Charlie Griffith that would end Nari Contractor’s career.

I probably was the lucky mascot for India because the team won the match convincingly setting a lead of 1-0 in the series. The feat would be repeated in Madras a few days later ending the series with a 2-0 victory in India’s favour.

Within a couple of years, I had the privilege of watching another England team in action in 1963-1964. India was led by the Nawab of Pataudi and England by Mike Smith. It was a different venue. I could feel from day one that there was something amiss. It was also a test match with big names representing each side. I was puzzled as I failed to feel the frenzy I experienced at the Eden Gardens. Then suddenly the realization dawned in my sub-conscious mind. It was the passion that was lacking. No other crowd can be as passionate for the game as the Calcutta crowd.
Long live Eden Gardens.

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