In general perception,
Kolkata is a chaotic city. Traffic jams, load shedding, public demonstrations,
political rallies and bundhs are features of the city’s daily life. India’s
first prime minister called Kolkata (then Calcutta) a city of processions. His
grandson went a step further and called it a ‘dying city’, a statement which
proved a big hindrance against all his sincere attempts to establish his party
at the helm of the state’s affairs.
Our close affinity with
city notwithstanding, we cannot really blame these national leaders for their
negative and judgmental views. The moment you land or enter the city either by
air or by train, you rub shoulders with a jostling crowd, breathe pollution and
experience a cacophony of the highest decibels. Getting to your destination in
the city is another challenge you have to endure. Unless, you have a chauffeur
driven car waiting for you at the chock a block parking lot, your travails have
just begun. Kolkata cab drivers do not suffer from any inhibition like
politeness or soft speech. If their mean demeanor upsets you, wait until you
meet an auto-rickshaw driver. His diatribes will elevate the cab driver
to an exalted angelic stature.
The cab and auto drivers
set their own terms following the dictates of the basic economic theory; supply
and demand. If you land at the unfortunate moment when these vehicles are in
short supply, you would be haggling for a seat rather than the fare. The fare
is not negotiable.
Once settled or
unsettled in the vehicle of your choice or fate, the ordeal of city travel
begins. To put it simply, you might feel that the city has no traffic
rules. But, you would be wrong, the police had, many years ago, set stringent
rules to be enforced on all vehicles and pedestrians. However, the book of
rules is probably lost or stolen from the highly secured police head quarter at
Lal Bazar. This has imparted upon the police force and the public the highest
level of personal freedom to set their own traffic rules. The police on
occasions do step in as the final arbitrator imposing stiff fines on the guilty.
The fines usually do not reach the state coffers.
Once rested in your
destination, you would most probably take a stroll in the streets to have a
feel of the city’s soul. The streets are chaotic with noisy and snarling
traffic. Pedestrians are left to mend for themselves by sharing the road
space with fuming buses, taxis, autos, cars and thelas (push carts). Kolkata
pavements were built to encourage small time entrepreneurs to run their
enterprises. You will find small tea and snack shops, small
eateries, book stores, storage spaces along with a group of hawkers jostling
with each other trying to sell their merchandise. These small time traders
usually pay a hefty rent to shady characters suspected to be agents of local
politicians or police.
An attempt is being made
these days to beautify the city by painting the road dividers blue and white
and installing fancy three-armed lamp posts know as Trident Lights. They look
good. However, cynics have never been in short supply in the city of joy. There
have been caustic comments made in the media of concentrating on window
dressing rather than going for real development. Hours of debate on TV channels
show city’s intellectuals sharing their wisdom during prime time.
Personally, I think a bit of window dressing is justified to project a positive
image of your city.
In spite of all mess,
chaos, rallies and dirt, there is a delicate side of Kolkata’s soul that one
has to probe deep to discover. The epithet of the Cultural Capital of India was
actually earned by the city it was not just thrust upon it. A leading music
maestro of international repute once introduced his sons to Kolkata audience
saying that his boys will get their final recognition only after they are
blessed by the Kolkata crowd. Music is just one aspect of Kolkata’s cultural
identity. When the art of theatre is fast vanishing in several cities or
getting to be highly expensive ventures like in London or Broadway, Kolkata’s
group theatre culture still thrives with a meager budget and unprecedented
dedication bordering on fanaticism.
Kolkata’s Annual Book
Fair or Boi Mela is a unique event open to the general public only. No large
scale book trading is conducted here. It is supposedly the world’s largest
non-trade book fair. It is also the largest in the world in terms of
attendance.
Though Bollywood movies
dominate the entire world by its sheer volume, Kolkata movie industry created a
special niche for itself for artistic movies on contemporary themes made with a
much lower budget. Frequent awards and recognitions at national and
international forums are testimony to the quality of production.
Though it is the capital
of West Bengal, traditionally Kolkata has always been very cosmopolitan. People
from all over the country and beyond come here and thrive and there has not
been a single event of parochialism. Hindi, Urdu and even English cultures
co-exist with the culture of Bengal. Instead of clashing these diverse cultures
tend to enrich each other. Someone once described Kolkata as the largest
Marwari city in the world. No animosity followed the comment; instead there was
pride and jubilation at this special honour.
When you come to
Kolkata, please do not feel abhorred by its noise, dirt and chaos. Try to find
its soul. If you do, you will return an enriched person.
15 October 2012
No comments:
Post a Comment